WHY “DARK”...Governance, Colour, Resources, Exploitation or Destiny ??

Fortunately (although at times it happened to be unfortunate!!)  I’ve been to west most corner of the so called “Dark Continent”, to a country named Republic of Guinea, two times, as a part of some project to be developed there. It left me with innumerable questions in my mind – answers of which I’m still searching for!!

The journey itself was very special as we had transit at UAE to reconnect Flight to Guinea. This provided me with an opportunity to recall what I had learnt in my class tenth textbooks – Glimpses of all the three types of economies - It was journey from a developing nation (India) to the underdeveloped (Republic of Guinea), through a developed one (UAE).

A view of Dubai International Airport

The very seven odd hours spent at Dubai International Airport’s scenic beauty, I was wondering that the developed nations have made so much progress in terms of technology and standard of living, whether our country would ever in generations be able to compete with them. Globalisation could best be visualised there as I was able to see people from all corners of the world carrying/representing different identities. In a way, Dubai International Airport serves as a “Global Transit Hub” as Emirates airlines has flights for almost all the regions of the world.

Now something about Republic of Guinea – Geographically located on Western side of Africa, Atlantic Ocean borders its capital city Conakry. It is a predominantly Islamic country, with Muslims representing 85 percent of population. It is one of the poorest countries in the world. The issue of human rights in the country remains controversial. The underdevelopment is the result of prolonged history of poor governance that includes French Colonization (that’s why its official language is also French), more than 50 years of Autocratic rule and then a short termed rule by Military Junta before turning into a Republic.

Just after landing in Guinea (curious/excited as well as with some sense of fear!!) I had the experience of what an “under-developed” nation means. The officials (police as well!!) at the airport were so corrupt that at each exit point they demanded bribe (of course without any reason!!). After exiting from airport on way to hotel, I could saw innumerable old generation Renault cars carrying luggage up to level equivalent to 3-4 times the height of car, thus making fun of so called “Centre of gravity” concept of physics. The country has only about 13% access to electricity, provided to households from evening 6 to morning 6 and that too on alternate days. It means during daytime they don’t have access to electricity at all. The economy is so unproductive that One US Dollar equals 7000 in their local currency (Guinean Franc). When asked for exchange worth 4000 US Dollars, I was astonished to see the man bringing two bags, filled with their local currency. Forget about balanced diet comprising of proteins, vitamins, carbohydrates, fat, roughage & all we demand in India as part of Food Security, they don’t even have basic food to just kill their hunger. I could see a metre long bread piece in hands of few (mostly children) & somebody told me that this is the only food of theirs for the whole day. Much annoying was the condition of people sitting roadside whole day doing nothing (as there was no infrastructure, no access to electricity & hence almost no economy!!)

Still under the aegis of “Under-development”, the term “Globalisation” had not lost its relevance there also. We were (luckily) able to locate Hotel Taj Mahal with Indian & Pak cuisines as well as a Chinese Restaurant & a Casino. Respect for Indian cinema/Bollywood grew exponentially for me when people, even not knowing in which corner of the planet earth do India lie, were endlessly praising Amitabh Bachhan, Shahrukh Khan naming few movies of them. I felt really glad knowing this!

 After exploring the Urban Guinea, the next was to explore its rural counterpart. As we moved deeper into the villages heading towards the project site, the situation turned out to be more pathetic. The villages had almost no or very bad road connectivity with no suitable modes of public/private transport available. They are so much isolated that for a normal village person, going to city/town seems going to other planet. In such a scenario how one can imagine children to have better access to schools in nearby city, needy ones to have better access to healthcare, unemployed to have better job opportunities in cities and a whole lot of never ending list.

A scene captured in town of Guinea showing children going to school

There had been moments forcing me to think what the term “Human Rights” actually means? Are Global Institutions really working to protect them? If so, then I witnessed an amazing paradox – A poor child wearing T-shirt of United Nations (probably distributed as part of UNICEF initiative), searching dustbin that was kept roadside in hope of getting some food to kill hunger, finding a small piece of bread & then happily eating it!

On way, we saw children (mostly starved) waving hands towards us, maybe as a welcome gesture or maybe in some hope but I really felt helpless thinking of their miseries & started thinking if I could in anyway do something to lessen them. The journey left innumerable questions in my mind – Who is responsible for this condition of theirs – Is it because of poor governance? Is it the colour that matters to such an extent that it ultimately decides who is master & who a slave, though I reject this notion otherwise Obama could never have been a President of the world’s most powerful nation! Are they themselves responsible for their situation as no one has taught them of their rights & they have now satisfactorily accepted their daily life, not willing to change & think beyond  their imagination, or…....Or it is only the luck/destiny that whomsoever gets more resources would become more wealthier and powerful. I reject this notion as well because Africa is a resourceful continent! Or this situation is because of exploitation by Superpowers, first by French (Colonization) & now by US/Russia by exercising their monopoly over “so called” Global Democratic Institutions like UN, World Bank, FAO in the process of decision making, whether on issues of trade/agriculture/environment/politics, vetoing their decision, having consequences only for these third world countries - stalling their progress & ultimately their right to live & prosper!

Whatever may be the reason, it is pretty clear that only Education, better Healthcare & Infrastructure can bring some light in their lives. I wish “light” for this “dark” Continent!!

Dedicated to all those hopeful children in Africa who left a long lasting impression on me !!